“With the exception of just two of the eight chippies I visited, the mushy peas were made in-house – thick, flavourful, and with barely a hint of artificial colouring. They knew exactly how to turn a simple pea into something comforting and proper. And somehow, despite being miles from Blackpool or Bridlington, the chips were spot on – plump, crispy, and full of flavour. Whatever they’re doing with those humble Spanish spuds, it’s working.”